The Science of YouthLock: Anti-Aging Hair Colour Architecture
Aging hair presents unique chemical challenges behind the chair. As melanocyte activity ceases, strands lose their natural lipid shield, natural moisture factor, and structural amino acids. The cuticle layer hardens, creating a wiry, non-porous barrier that repels standard permanent oxidative colour, frequently causing conventional tints to finish sheer, muddy, or fade prematurely into warm brass.
Joico LumiShine YouthLock addresses these biological changes with a targeted tripartite active complex:
- Hydrolyzed Collagen: Replenishes lost elasticity and youthful density, softening brittle, wiry cuticles so light reflects evenly across the hair shaft.
- ArgiPlex Bond-Building Technology: Delivers restorative Arginine amino acids directly into the inner cortex during the colouring process, fortifying structural bonds without requiring supplemental bond additives.
- Double-Pigment Background Load: Infuses an enriched tonal concentration that saturates resistant grey fibers at 100% opacity without altering the natural level.
YouthLock Tonal Series: NN vs. NNA vs. NNWC Formulation Guide
YouthLock eliminates the guesswork of mixing multiple tubes to cover resistant silver. Choose your series based on the client's underlying warmth and target finish:
- NN Series (Natural Natural — 2NN to 10NN): Engineered with a balanced, neutral-warm dual-natural base. Provides maximum opaque depth and rich, healthy reflection. Ideal for clients seeking natural, true-to-level brunette, neutral, or warm blonde coverage without excessive gold or red flare.
- NNA Series (Natural Natural Ash — 3NNA to 9NNA): Formulated with an enriched cool ash secondary tone over the double-natural base. Controls and neutralizes stubborn brassy, orange, and red undertones during lift and deposit. Ideal for clients desiring cool, modern, smoke-tinged brunette or cool beige finishes on coarse salt-and-pepper hair.
- NNWC Series (Natural Natural Warm Copper — 4NNWC to 9NNWC): Calibrated with a double-natural background pre-blended with vibrant, warm copper reflects. Delivers 100% opaque grey saturation while imparting luminous, multidimensional copper warmth—eliminating the need to formulate a separate copper accent tube into a natural base.
Professional Mixing, Developer & Processing Protocol
Achieving predictable, salon-grade opacity requires precise adherence to manufacturer mixing guidelines:
- Standard Mixing Ratio: 1:1 (Equal parts Joico LumiShine YouthLock Crème Colour to Joico LumiShine Crème Developer).
- Dedicated Developer Strength: 20 Volume (6%) LumiShine Developer is the mandatory benchmark for resistant grey. Use 30 Volume (9%) only when 2 to 3 levels of natural lift are required.
- Processing Timing: 35 to 45 minutes at standard room temperature (full 45 minutes recommended for coarse, resistant textures).
- Thermal Rule: Do not use heat lamps or processing caps. Ambient room temperature development maintains cuticle integrity and prevents uneven color absorption.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does Joico YouthLock differ from standard LumiShine Permanent Crème?
Standard LumiShine Permanent Crème is calibrated for all hair types and requires mixing a Natural (N) series base tube to achieve full grey coverage when working with fashion tones. YouthLock features a dedicated double-pigment load enriched with Collagen, formulated specifically to penetrate coarse, resistant, 50%–100% white/grey hair in a single step without needing a separate base tube.
Does YouthLock offer warm fashion shades like copper?
Yes. The YouthLock NNWC (Natural Natural Warm Copper) series (4NNWC to 9NNWC) provides rich, radiant copper tones pre-calibrated over a double-natural base for 100% opaque grey coverage without hollow, pinkish, or translucent results.
Can YouthLock be mixed with 10 Volume or 40 Volume Developer?
No. Joico specifically formulates YouthLock for use with 20 Volume (6%) LumiShine Crème Developer (or 30 Volume when additional lift on natural uncoloured hair is needed). 10 Volume does not provide sufficient cuticle opening for resistant grey, while 40 Volume can blow out the cuticle of mature hair and cause translucency.
Can I intermix YouthLock with standard LumiShine permanent shades?
Yes. You can blend YouthLock NN, NNA, or NNWC shades into other standard LumiShine permanent shades to fortify grey coverage with extra collagen conditioning and deposit density. Maintain the standard 1:1 mixing ratio.
How does Eastern Beauty Supply ship Joico YouthLock across Canada?
We ship salon professional supplies across Canada, with free standard shipping available on qualifying orders over $59.