PERMANENT CREAM COLOUR

Permanent Hair Colour Canada - Joico, L'Oreal, Schwarzkopf, Matrix & Wella

Permanent hair colour changes the colour of hair permanently. When mixed with a developer, permanent dye opens the cuticle and deposits new pigment inside the cortex. When the cuticle re-seals, the colour is locked in - it does not wash out, it grows out as new hair appears at the root. Permanent colour is used to lighten, darken, neutralise tone, refresh faded colour, or cover grey across the full head.

Eastern Beauty Supply carries professional permanent cream colour from five trusted manufacturers - Joico LumiShine (full natural, ash, gold, copper, violet, red and YouthLock bond-protecting ranges), L'Oreal Professionnel Inoa (ammonia-free, ODS oil-delivery) and Majirel (the original ionene G technology), Schwarzkopf Igora Royal (one of the deepest tonal libraries in the industry, including Naturals, Beige, Chocolate, Gold, Copper, Cendre, Violet, Red and Highlift), Matrix SoColor (with Extra Coverage variants for resistant grey), and Wella Color Charm liquid permanent. We also stock Berrywell Augenblick professional brow and lash dye.

  • Best for full-head colour, root retouches, grey coverage, tonal correction and high-lift blondes
  • Pair with the matching developer volume - 10 vol deposit, 20 vol cover grey, 30 vol lift two levels, 40 vol high lift
  • Professional formulas - mix ratio, processing time and finished tone vary by brand, always read the manufacturer instructions

The Permanent Cream Colour Buyer's Guide

What is permanent cream colour?

Permanent cream colour is a two-part professional system - a cream colourant mixed with a peroxide developer. The developer's hydrogen peroxide (1) opens the hair's cuticle layer, (2) breaks down existing pigment so new colour can take hold, and (3) activates the colourant molecules so they swell inside the cortex and stay locked in once the cuticle closes. Unlike semi or demi colour, permanent colour does not wash out - it grows out, so root maintenance is needed every 4 to 8 weeks.

Permanent vs demi vs semi - quick comparison

TypeLifts natural colour?Covers grey?LastsBest forPermanentYes, up to 4 levels (high-lift)Yes, 100 percentGrows out (8+ weeks)Full colour change, grey coverage, lift, long-term colourDemi-permanentNoBlends 50-70 percent20-28 shampoosTonal refresh, gloss, deepen natural shadeSemi-permanentNoStains but does not cover4-12 shampoosFashion shades, refresh colour between salon visits

Brand library at EBS

BrandMix ratioProcessingKnown forJoico LumiShine1:1 with LumiShine developer35 min (45 for grey, 50 for High Lift)ART (ArgiPlex Repair Technology), strong grey coverage, vivid red and copperJoico LumiShine YouthLock1:1 with LumiShine developer35 minCollagen-infused permanent for mature, anti-frizz finishL'Oreal Inoa1:1 with Inoa-specific Rich developer35 minAmmonia-free ODS (oil delivery), zero scalp odour, gentle on sensitive scalpsL'Oreal Majirel1:1.5 with Oxydant Creme35 minOriginal ionene G + incell technology, gold-standard cover and shineSchwarzkopf Igora Royal1:1 (1:2 for High Lift)30-45 minDeepest tonal selection - Beige, Chocolate, Cendre, Violet Red, Highlift Ultra and Special BlondeMatrix SoColor1:1 with Matrix Cream Developer35 minPre-bonded ColorGrip technology, dedicated Extra Coverage line for resistant greyWella Color Charm (Liquid)1:2 with 20 vol Color Charm developer30 minLiquid permanent - fast saturation, intense grey coverage, popular for at-home pros

How to choose a developer volume

VolumePeroxideWhat it doesUse with10 vol3 percentDeposit only, tone-on-tone, darker than naturalGoing darker, glossing, refreshing midlengths20 vol6 percent1 level lift, full grey coverage, on-level depositMost root retouches, grey coverage, same-level colour30 vol9 percent2 levels of liftGoing lighter by 2 shades on virgin hair40 vol12 percent3-4 levels of lift, used with High Lift colourHigh-lift blonde shades only (Highlift, NB, NW, HL series)

Tone codes decoded - what the numbers mean

Most professional permanent colour uses a "level dot tone" system. The number before the dot is the natural level (1 black, 10 lightest blonde, 12 ultra blonde). The numbers after the dot are tonal reflections - for example 6.3 = level 6 brown with a gold reflect, 9.1 = level 9 blonde with ash, 5NN = level 5 double natural (extra coverage). Common tone codes:

  • 0 or N - Natural
  • 1 - Ash / Cendre
  • 2 - Iridescent / Violet
  • 3 - Gold
  • 4 - Copper
  • 5 - Mahogany
  • 6 - Red
  • 7 - Brown / Matte
  • 8 - Beige / Pearl (brand dependent)

Choosing the right family for your goal

  • Cover stubborn grey (50 percent or more) - reach for an N or NN natural base - Joico LumiShine Natural, L'Oreal Majirel Deep, Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Naturals Extra, or Matrix SoColor Extra Coverage. Always mix with 20 vol.
  • Neutralise warmth on lightened hair - use a Cendre (ash) or Violet shade - Igora Royal Cendres or Cendre Plus, LumiShine Natural Ash, Wella Color Charm Intense Natural.
  • Sensitive or compromised scalp - L'Oreal Inoa is ammonia-free with no scalp odour, ideal for clients reactive to traditional cream colour.
  • Bond-protecting permanent - Joico LumiShine YouthLock (collagen, formulated for mature anti-frizz) or Matrix SoColor (pre-bonded). For added protection, pair any brand with bond-builders in conditioning.
  • High-lift blonde from natural base - Igora Royal Highlift Ultra Blonde (10-0 to 10-46) or Highlift Special Blonde (12-0 to 12-40), mixed with 40 vol.
  • Warm reds, coppers, mahogany - LumiShine Red Red Copper, Natural Red Gold, Natural Copper; Igora Royal Copper Extra, Chocolate Red, Red Extra; Majirel warm series.
  • Brow and lash tinting - Berrywell Augenblick is a separate dedicated formula. Do not use scalp colour on brows or lashes.

How to apply permanent cream colour - step by step

  1. Skin patch test 48 hours before each service, even on returning clients.
  2. Start with dry, unwashed hair (natural scalp oil protects against irritation).
  3. Section into four quadrants. Wear gloves and apron.
  4. Mix colourant and developer in the brand-specified ratio (usually 1:1, Majirel and Wella Color Charm are 1:2 / 1:1.5).
  5. For a virgin application, apply midlength to ends first, then roots last (scalp heat accelerates processing). For regrowth, apply only to new growth, refresh midlengths in the last 5-10 minutes.
  6. Process for the manufacturer time - typically 35 minutes (45 for resistant grey, 50 for High Lift). Do not use external heat unless the brand allows.
  7. Emulsify by adding a little warm water and massaging for 1 minute before rinsing - this lifts colour off the skin and closes the cuticle.
  8. Rinse until water runs clear, then shampoo with a colour-safe shampoo and follow with a deep conditioner or post-colour treatment.

Aftercare to make permanent colour last

  • Wait 48-72 hours before the first shampoo - cuticles need time to fully seal.
  • Wash with sulfate-free, colour-safe shampoo in cool to lukewarm water.
  • Use a weekly bond or moisture mask - colour services dehydrate the cortex.
  • Apply heat protectant before any thermal styling (160-180 C maximum on colour-treated hair).
  • Use UV / pool filter protection in summer - chlorine and UV oxidise colour and shift tone.
  • Refresh tone every 4-6 weeks with a demi gloss between full-colour services.

Frequently asked questions

How long does permanent hair colour last?

Permanent colour does not wash out - the deposited pigment stays in the cortex until the hair grows out. Visible regrowth appears at 4-8 weeks depending on hair growth rate, so most clients book a root retouch on that cycle. Midlength and end tone will fade gradually over 6-10 weeks from washing, UV and heat styling, which is why a demi gloss refresh between full colours extends vibrancy.

Does permanent hair colour cover grey?

Yes - permanent colour is the only category that delivers true 100 percent grey coverage. For resistant grey (coarse, glassy, 50 percent or more grey), use a Natural (N) or Double Natural (NN) base mixed 1:1 with 20 vol developer and process the full 45 minutes. Brands with dedicated grey-coverage variants include Matrix SoColor Extra Coverage, L'Oreal Majirel Deep, Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Naturals Extra and Joico LumiShine Natural / YouthLock NN.

Can I mix two brands of permanent colour together?

No - never mix colourants from different manufacturers in the same bowl. Each brand is engineered for a specific developer chemistry, mix ratio and dye-load. Mixing brands can cause uneven lift, off-tone results, and in rare cases a chemical reaction. You can, however, use different brands on different sections in the same service (for example Igora on roots, Inoa on the front hairline) as long as each is mixed with its own developer.

Which developer do I use with permanent colour?

Match the developer to the brand whenever possible - Joico LumiShine with LumiShine Veroxide, L'Oreal Inoa with Inoa Rich Developer, Majirel with L'Oreal Oxydant Creme, Igora with Schwarzkopf IgoraVit, Matrix SoColor with Matrix Cream Developer, Wella Color Charm liquid with Wella Color Charm 20 vol. Volume choice - 10 vol to deposit darker, 20 vol for grey and on-level colour, 30 vol for 2 levels of lift, 40 vol for high lift only.

How long does permanent colour take to process?

Standard processing is 35 minutes for most brands at room temperature. Resistant grey extends to 45 minutes. High Lift formulas (Igora Royal Highlift, LumiShine 10NW) process 50 minutes. Ammonia-free formulas like L'Oreal Inoa stay at 35 minutes without external heat. Never exceed the manufacturer's maximum time - over-processing damages the cuticle without depositing more pigment.

Can permanent hair colour lighten my hair?

Yes, but with limits. On virgin hair, a level 7 series with 30 vol can lift 2 levels. High Lift shades with 40 vol can lift 3-4 levels and finish on the cool side (good for natural levels 6 and lighter). Permanent colour cannot lighten previously coloured hair - colour does not lift colour. To go lighter on coloured hair you need a lightener (bleach) or a colour remover first, then re-tone with permanent colour.

What is the difference between Inoa and Majirel?

Both are L'Oreal Professionnel permanent cream colour. Majirel is the classic ammonia-based system with ionene G + incell, a 1:1.5 mix ratio with Oxydant Creme, gold-standard shine and coverage. Inoa is the ammonia-free reformulation using ODS (oil delivery system), 1:1 mix ratio with Inoa Rich Developer, zero scalp odour, ideal for sensitive scalps and frequent colourists. Tone results are similar but Inoa runs slightly cooler.

What is YouthLock by LumiShine?

YouthLock is Joico's permanent colour formulated specifically for mature hair. It contains collagen and the brand's ART (ArgiPlex Repair Technology) and is engineered to combat the dryness, frizz and reduced elasticity that comes with mature hair. The shade map (NN double natural) is also designed for excellent grey coverage. Mix and process exactly like standard LumiShine - 1:1 with LumiShine developer for 35 minutes.

Can I use permanent hair colour on my eyebrows or lashes?

No. Never use scalp hair colour on brows or lashes - it can cause severe allergic reactions, swelling and even blindness. Use a dedicated brow and lash dye system such as Berrywell Augenblick (sold separately in this collection), which is formulated and tested specifically for the eye area and uses a much lower-strength developer (Berrywell Oxidant).

Will permanent colour damage my hair?

Permanent colour does cause some cuticle disruption - that is how the dye gets into the cortex. Quality is in the formula. Modern bond-protecting permanents (LumiShine ART, Matrix SoColor pre-bonded, Inoa ODS oil delivery) minimise damage significantly compared to older cream colours. Keep damage low by - not over-processing, using the lowest developer volume that achieves your goal, applying a post-colour acidifier (LumiShine Bond Builder, Inoa Post), and following with weekly bond and moisture masks at home.

How often can I colour my hair?

Roots can safely be retouched every 4-6 weeks. Do not re-apply permanent colour to already-coloured midlengths and ends except for a brief refresh in the last 5-10 minutes - layering full colour on top of full colour stacks pigment, dehydrates the cuticle, and dulls the finish. For freshness between root services, use a demi or semi gloss in the same tone family.

Where can I buy professional permanent hair colour in Canada?

Eastern Beauty Supply is an authorised Canadian retailer for Joico, L'Oreal Professionnel, Schwarzkopf Professional, Matrix and Wella. We carry the full permanent cream colour libraries plus matching developers, ships Canada-wide with free expedited shipping over $59 before tax.

Related collections at EBS

Developer / Peroxide, Demi-Permanent Colour, Semi-Permanent Colour, Lightener / Bleach, Toner, Colour Removers, Colour-Safe Shampoo, Colour-Safe Conditioner, Bond Builders, Joico LumiShine, L'Oreal Professional, Schwarzkopf Professional, Matrix, Wella Professional.